St Ignace to Charlevoix

Lots of boats on the move today which is reassuring. We review different forecasts for where we are and our planned destination but as we move through new territory each day with slightly or significantly different micro climates, we don’t know what conditions are like until we’ve left port. So it is reassuring that other boaters have made the same decision. 

There is literally a parade. Within visible range are three sailboats and Moon Dance, all traveling the Straight of Mackinaw to Rose Shoal and Grey’s Reef at the north end of Lake Michigan. It will be interesting to see if we all end up in Charlevoix this afternoon. There are a few other possible destinations. Beaver Island which is our Plan B  destination if Lake Michigan is too rough, Petosky and Harbour Springs. Not many other places to choose.

We made a toast to Poseidon this morning as we traversed the Mackinaw Shipwreak Preserve; paying our respect to all those who died here and all those who were hurt by their passing. We also thanked the governments who provide charts, navigation aids, harbours of refuge and rescue services. A good reminder to pick weather days carefully.

The parade diverged once we clear Greys Reef several hours later. Two of the sailboats motored west towards Beaver Island or possibly to Chicago if they stay on the same bearing. We decided to continue on. The wind was up from this morning but we thought the one foot swells, 2 seconds apart were manageable as Moon Dance was taking them directly on the bow. The occasional two footer would toss some water on the windshield but nothing major. 

We had elected to drive from below this morning. It was still quite cold when we left St Ignace as 5:38 a.m., plus it takes a little scrambling to move down from the flybridge if the water gets rough. And, it is definitely more comfortable driving from below in “sporty” conditions. We try to stand half hour watches when using the lower helm as one must literally stand as we offloaded our helm chair several years ago.

The wind and waves calmed down half way across Traverse Bay and it was all smooth sailing after that. Smooth enough that we noticed evidence of a significant die off of fish. Most of the corpses were between 2-4”.  One of the marina staff said they were Alewives. The Michigan Department of Natural Resources believes the die-off is caused by a combination of poor over-winter conditions, temperature changes and spawning stress – not by pollution or disease. Seems reasonable as there is generally a mixing of surface and deep water in the spring and the recent windy period may have accelerated the mixing. There is a quite good explanation of the process here.

We arrived in Charlevoix in time for the 1:00 p.m. bridge lift.  The entrance into Round Lake is through a long breakwater and canal with a bascule bridge that lifts on the half hour. The bridge is the main street in the village and is quite heavily travelled so boats are encourage to be ready and waiting when the light turns green. 

At 12:58, the bridge keeper ask the three boats waiting to close up and approach the bridge. We did and the sailboat that had paced us all day did. Then the bridge keeper repeater her requested. The sailboat joined the radio conversation and said, “She’s taking to you “Saunter”; an American Tug that was holding outside the breakwater. Gave us a bit of a giggle.

We tied up at the Municipal Marina in Charlevoix. This is where we terminated our travels in 2019.  We are looking forward to a few days enjoying the benefits of urban life then re-starting our “Loop”.